Freitag, 4. März 2016

Stack Overflow Cowl

Stacked stitches are a wonderful way to achieve lovely and intriguing color patterns. This cowl is knitted flat - started with a provsional cast on and ended by grafting. It may take a while to get the hang of knitting stacked stitches but it's definitely a worthwhile activity - since the finished piece is not your average garter stitch cowl.

The first pattern with stacked stitches I saw was Xandy Peters' Fox Paws Pattern - absolutely stunning! Another one of hers is called Ribbon Candy and available on knitty.com. In this pattern I'm going to use a similar notation to hers for the stacked stitches.

As to the pattern name - a stack overflow is a computing term. It means that an execution stack (a part of the computer's memory) grows beyond the memory that is reserved for it - which can lead to computer security vulnerabilities. For more details see this Wikipedia article.




Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials
  • about 150 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors
  • 3.25mm needles (straight or circulars)
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends





Special Stitches and Techniques

Stack Overflow Cowl - free knitting pattern by Knitting and so on

Size

I did a cast-on of 51 stitches and total of 38 pattern repeast (38 times the 6 rows). My scarf has a width of 29 cm and a circumference of 150 cm.

Stack Overflow Cowl - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on


Instructions

Provisionally CO51 (or if you'd like to vary the width, cast on a multiple of 4 plus 3 (4n+3))
Row 1 (WS): k all
Row 2 (RS):  k1 * inc1-9, k3 repeat from * until there are only two stitches stitch left, inc1-9, k1
Row 3 (WS): * k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk k1 repeat from * until there are only 11 sts left, k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk
Change color
Row 4 (RS) = Row 3
Row 5 (WS) = Row 3
Row 6 (RS): BO4 (and carry up yarn from other color), k2, * dec9-1, k3 repeat from * until there are only 4 sts left, BBO4

Repeat rows 1 to 6 and change color everytime you get to row 4, i.e. you knit 6 rows with each color (rows 4 to 6 and 1 to 3).

Repeat until your cowl has reached the desired lenght - make sure to end with the color you started with. Leave a tail of about 1 meter for grafting. Place the stitches from the provisional CO on the second needle, hold the ends together (RS out) and graft in garter stitch.

Weave in ends an block.

Stack Overflow Cowl - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on

This page was featured as "Most Clicked" at Pinbellish Link Party #28 and at the Kntting Love Link Party in May 2016

Featured on Knitting Love Link Party with Jessie At Home and Underground Crafter

Sonntag, 21. Februar 2016

Stacked Stitches

I've long admired the beautiful patterns with stacked stitches created by Xandy Peters - available on Ravelry or from her website "So I make stuff", e.g. the absolutely gorgeous Fow Paws pattern or Ribbon Candy. I really wanted to be able to do this technique and design something with it.

When I first tried the technique, it took me a while to get the hang of it - because, frankly, the stacked stitches all bungled up on the needles feel weird. But once I got over that (and got my maths right), stacked stitches have a certain rhythm to them and are really fun to knit.

The piece shown below is going to be a double-length cowl, knitted flat with the ends grafted together. (I like that construction :)



Videos explaining how to do stacked increases and stacked decreases can be found on the "So I make Stuff"-YouTube channel.

Freitag, 19. Februar 2016

Cordillera Scarf

A beautiful scarf to show off the contrast of two skeins of the same variegated yarn started at different places in the color sequence. It is knitted from end to end all in garter stitch.

Cordillera Scarf - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on



Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.




Materials
  • a total about 150 grams of fingering weight yarn - in two colors  (I used two skeins of Noro Taiyo Sock but started at a different point in the color sequence)
  • 3.5 mm needles (straights or circular)
  • 1 stitch marker

Techniques and Notation

Size
I did a total of 9 repeats before I started decreasing. My scarf is about 190 long and - at its widest point - 40 cm wide.


Cordillera Scarf - Free knitting pattern by Knitting and so on


Instructions
CO8 (C1) and CO8 (C2)
Setup Row 0: sl1, k7 (C1); place marker; k8 (C2)

Increasing Part
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k1 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k2 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k3 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k4 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, kfb, k to 5 sts bef marker (C1); k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k5 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k4 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k3 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k2 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k1 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, kfb, k to marker (C1); k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k5 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k to marker, k1 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k to marker, k2 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k to marker, k3 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k to marker, k4 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, kfb, k to marker, k5 (C1); k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 5 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k to marker, k4 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k to marker, k3 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 18: sl1, k to marker, k2 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 19: sl1, k to marker, k1 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 20: sl1, kfb, k to marker (C1); k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker (C2); k to end (C1)

If you prefer to work with charts, here's a chart of the increasing part.
Chart of Cordillera Scarf - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on
Chart 1: Increasing Part of Cordillera Scarf
Repeat Rows 1 to 20 until you have reach half of your desired length.

Decreasing Part
Ridge 1: sl1, k2tog, k to 1 st bef marker (C1); k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k1 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k2 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k3 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k4 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k to 5 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k5 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k2tog, k to 4 sts bef marker (C1); k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1, (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k4 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k3 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k2 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k1 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k to marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k5 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k2tog, k to marker, k1 (C1); k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k to marker, k2 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k to marker, k3 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k to marker, k4 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k to marker, k5 (C1); k to last end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 5 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k2tog, k to marker, k4 (C1); k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k to marker, k3 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 18: sl1, k to marker, k2 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 19: sl1, k to marker, k1 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 20: sl1, k to marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker (C2); k to end (C1)

Chart of Cordillera Scarf - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on
Chart 2: Decreasing Part of Cordillera Scarf
Repeat until there are only 8 sts of each color left. Instead of a the last WS row bind off in pattern.
Weave in ends and block.

Cordillera Scarf - Free knitting pattern by Knitting and so on


This page was feature on Fiber Tuesday Link Party #51 by Ouicrochet and on the Knitting Love Monthly Link Party #8. Thank you!

Oui Crochet  Featured on Knitting Love Link Party with Jessie At Home and Underground Crafter

Donnerstag, 21. Januar 2016

Patterns with a Knitting and Crochet Version

Some people like to crochet - some people like to knit. I like both crafts and I really like designing fingerless gloves that have a bit of a special construction, e.g. started from the thumb or worked flat. They are all quite interesting for using up self-striping yarn. For some of these I have written both knitting and crochet versions - i.e. I have copied myself :)
Here's a list of these patterns.

U-Turn Mitts
These mitts are started with a magic cast on at the edge of the hand - and then forming a U shape around this cast on.
They mitts are worked flat - except for the thumb which is worked in the round.
The U-Turn mitts (crochet) were the first crochet pattern I ever published. Somebody's comment gave me the idea of trying to work out one of my patterns in crochet in the first place.

U-Turn Mitts (knit version)
U-Turn Mitts (crochet version)




Circle Mitts & Kreisel Fingerless Gloves
These mitts are started at the thumb and then grow in circle shape around it. When the mitt is big enough to fit around the hands, the sides are joined at the edge of the hand and the mitt is finished with the shaft. In the knit version, you switch between knitting in the round and knitting back and forth. In the crochet version, you only knit back and forth to achieve a continuous structure.

Circle Mitts (knit version)
Kreisel Fingerless Gloves (crochet version)



Pieces of Eight / Octavo
These mitts are also started at the thumb. Then the eight shape is worked - and finally the mitt is "widened" by back and forth rows. These mitts are a bit of a topological challenge, but the effect is quite beautiful.

Pieces of Eight Mitts (knit version)
Octavo Fingerless Gloves (crochet version)






Starburst / Sparkler
These mitts are worked flat. The shaping is achieved with short rows, which means that in the end there are more rows at the edges and less rows at the thumb.

Starburst Mitts (knit version)
Sparkler Mitts (crochet version)

Freitag, 15. Januar 2016

Barton Cottage Wrist Warmers

I've recently been rereading some Jane Austen novels - I especially like "Sense and Sensibility". That's what inspired me to knit a pair of long wrist warmers - they might be useful during a cold winter in a Devonshire cottage.
Of course, they are useful in modern times as well. Especially, if you work in a draughty office :)



Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials
  • about 170 meters of fingering weight yarn; I used exactly one skein of Lang Baby Alpaca
  • 3mm needles - I used dpns, but you can use circulars, too, if you prefer the magic loop method
  • a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge and Measurements
A finished wrist warmer measures 19 cm in circumference at the top (near the wrists) and 24 cm at the bottom (near the elbow). Its lenght is about 1 cm. 
In stockinette stitch 5 sts/8 rows equaled 2 cm.

Special Stitches and Abbreviations



Instructions
CO42 and join in round, place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round
Rounds 1, 2 and 3: * p3, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p2, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p1, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: * k7, p3, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p1, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p2, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Chart for rounds 1 to 18 (1st and 2nd repeat of diamond pattern)

Repeat rounds 1 to 18 once more (2nd repeat of diamond pattern)

To widen the wrist warmers there are now increases (mk1p) made in the purl channels - each time in the first row of one repeat and in turns in the first and the second purl channel of one pattern repeat, i.e. the purl sequences get wider.

(3rd repeat of diamond pattern)
Rounds 1, * p1 mk1p p2, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 2 and 3: * p4, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p3, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p2, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p1, k7, p3, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p2, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p3, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(4th repeat of diamond pattern)
Rounds 1, * p4, k1, p1  mk1p p2, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 2 and 3: * p4, k1, p4, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p3, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p2, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p1, k7, p4, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p2, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p3, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(5th repeat of diamond pattern)
Rounds 1, * p2, mk1p p2, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 2 and 3: * p5, k1, p4, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p4, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p3, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p2, k7, p4, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p3, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p4, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(6th repeat of diamond pattern)
Rounds 1, * p5, k1, p2  mk1p p2, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 2 and 3: * p5, k1, p5, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p4, k3, p5, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p3, k5, p5, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p2, k7, p5, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p3, k5, p5, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p4, k3, p5, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Knit round 2 once and then rounds 2 to 18 of the 6th repeat. Then knit round 2 two more times and bind off loosely in pattern.

Make two.
Weave in ends.



Samstag, 9. Januar 2016

From Almendra Cowl to Zoom Out Mitts

Recently when I looked at the list of patterns on my blog's Ravelry Page I noticed that I had patterns starting with nearly every letter of the alphabet ... nearly. That made me want to complete the list ... and I finally made it in December with the Xmas Star Mitts.

I must admit that I "designed" the names of at least two patterns to have a complete set of all the letters of the alphabet (K and X were the most difficult :). But I am quite proud to have a full alphabet of free knitting and crochet patterns anyway.




This list shows several things:
  • I'm not good at naming patterns - that's why I sometimes ask for help in the knittingparadise.com forum.
  • I like "nerdy" pattern names - or names that have some engineering, geometry or sci-fi connotation. 
  • I really like hand accessories - 31 (!) of the patterns are fingerless gloves and wrist warmers.
The list also shows that currently (January 9th, 2016) there are 64 free patterns available on this blog.

Here's the list. Enjoy!

Edit: All patterns released after this blog post are listed in italics. Currently there are 192 different patterns available. (last edit: 06.05.2022).

A
Alignment Socks
Autumn is Coming Bandana Cowl

B
Bamboo and Ruffles Wrist Warmers
Biased Brioche Cowl
Bitilasana Yoga Socks
Egg or Avocado (Potholder)
Lateral Knitting (Sideways Garter Stitch Top)
Little Christmas Tree
Little Rectangles Summer Scarf (also available in German)
Luftbläschen Brioche and Lace Scarf

M
Margarete Fingerless Gloves
Tipsy Toe Socks (also available in German)
Tipsy Toe Socks 2.0
Tomatoes and Coffee Socks
Zimtstern Mitts (also available in German)
Zoom Out Fingerless Gloves (also available in German)


Donnerstag, 7. Januar 2016

Sparkler Mitts

Stylish with an interesting construction - these crochet fingerless gloves are worked flat and use short rows to form a circle around the thumb. Because of this unusual construction, they are great to show off variegated yarn.
These mitts are the crochet version of my knitted Starburst mitts.

Sparkler Mitts - free crochet pattern by Knitting and so on

Since I had some problems to find a name I asked the community of knittingparadise.com to help me come up with a name - thank you all for your great ideas. I finally settled for Sparkler - to go with the name of the knitted version of these mitts :)



Creative Commons License
This work by Kniting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






German version: Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung wurde durch Heike von Heikehaekellust (eifelgirl1 auf Ravelry) erstellt und findet sich hier. Vielen lieben Dank dafür!

French Version: Une version française a été élaboré par Sophie Gelfi de Easy Crochet. Merci beaucoup!


Materials
  • 3mm crochet hook
  • about 40 to 45 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • 4 removable stitch markers
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends


Techniques and Abbreviations
Short Rows
  • connect and turn with slip stitch: join the last stitch of one row to the edge of another side: insert your hook into the last stitch of the row AND into the stitch of the part you want to connect with (called here: the other side) - see picture 1 below. Yarn over and draw yarn through two loops (picture 2 below). Then complete the sc. Do a slip stitch into the next row on the other side before starting the next row (picture 3 below).
Connect and Turn with Slip Stitch
  • join with single crochet: as shown in this YouTube video by tlcinspirations - however, in this pattern it's not used to join one side to the other, but to join the last row to the very first row.


General Construction

The mitts are worked flat in eight sections (from A to H). The diagram shows how  shows how the sections form the complete mitt, how many stitches there in a full row.
It also shows the mitt is to be folded and which parts are to be attached to which when finishing the mitts (or while you're knitting section F and G). Sections E, F, G, and H are mirror images of sections D, C, B, and A respectively, i.e. where there is an increase in A, there is an decrease in H - and the short row lenghts are mirrored as well.


Size and Gauge
This finished mitts measure 19cm in height - at their highest point. and about 19cm in circumference at the wrist.
11 rows of the used stitch (sctbl) equal 5 cm in height. And 12 stitches (sctbl) equal 5 cm in width.

Instructions


Section A
Chain 34 + 1 turning-chain
Ridge 1 : sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while placing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 25 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl1, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 8, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Now you should have a total of 35 stitches


Section B
Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch. tc, place marker A into the last st of that row
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc 
Ridge 3: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc 
Ridge 4: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc  
Ridge 5: sctbl 20 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 22 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 15, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 9: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 10: sctbl 8, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 11: sctbl 20 (up to and including M1), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Now you should have a total of 28 sts
Your piece should now look similar to picture 1 of the illustration photos.

Illustration Photos
Section C
Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 12, turn sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 16 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 19 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 10, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 6, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Now you should still have a total of 28 sts

Section D
Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, place marker B into the last stitch of this row, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 14, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 15 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 18 (up to M1), turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 14, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end tc
Now you should have a total of 26 sts
Your piece should now look similar to picture 2 of the illustration photos.

Ridge 9: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl to end, tc

Sparkler Mitts - free crochet pattern by Knitting and so on

Section E (= section D backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 14, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 18, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 14, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl to last (while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch), fold your mitt along the folding line (right sides together) and connect last st to first st in row marked with marker B.
You should now have 28 sts.
Now your piece should look like picture 3 of the illustration photos.


Section F (= section C backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 6, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 2: sctbl 10, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 3: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 4: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 5: sctbl 16, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 6: sctbl 12, turn sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 8: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch - while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch
You should still have 28 sts.

Sparkler Mitts - free crochet pattern by Knitting and so on

Section G (= section B backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 2: sctbl 8, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 3: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 4: sctbl 15, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 5: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 6: sctbl 22, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 7: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 8: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 9: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 10: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 11: sctbl to end, tc, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect (you should now connect your row to the row marked with marker A) - while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc
You should now have 35 stitches.

Section H (= section A backwards … nearly)
Ridge 1: sctbl 8, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 25 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1
Ridge 5: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctlb 31, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 9: sctbl all, tc; turn, join all stitches to first row with single crochets.

Weave in ends.
Make two.

Sparkler Mitts - free crochet pattern by Knitting and so on